Living in the later half of the fifteenth century...

Living in the bustling city of Kassel in the Land of Hesse means that you would be of any class, though the greater percentage would be middle class.

By the end of the Middle Ages, a middle class had emerged which was free of feudal duties, congregating in towns and cities: the burgher, merchant, or middle class.

MEN WOMEN

Men are prone to accidents associated with their occupations: The lower and middle classes being tied to several forms of manual labor, while the upper class contended with war, political intrigue and hunting accidents.

 

Only about half of the Women between the ages of 14 and 40 had a life expectancy equaling that of males in the same group. It is in these years that the Medieval woman was bearing children, which could be deadly. There seems to have been a tendency for women ---even noblewomen-- to have about one pregnancy every 18 months.

Beyond the age of 40, nearly an elderly female, the life expectancy ran about 10% better than male once again. Being in charge of the household, the woman tended to be more concerned with the health of themselves and others, thus tending to look after themselves more carefully.

Some women stand to remain maids all their lives, either be being incompatible, unable to reproduce (as giving birth was the final seal on the contract called "marriage": the betrothed was not required to continue the marriage with an un-reproductive female), being a younger sibling of a large family and thus little more than a drain on the household, or having run the dating game too long with nothing to show for it.

   

 

SKILLS

MEN WOMEN

 

 

Literacy was a normal accomplishment for a middle class girl of the times, since society was becoming generally literate, at least among the well to do.

Peasant women were expected to join in all their husbands' labors on the family's holding -- as well as feed and clothe the family, give birth to and care for children, and possibly carry on a side industry (Power 71, Rowling 23). Middle-class women were expected to pitch in with the housework (Hanawalt 182). And the load for upper-class women wasn't any lighter. They were expected to manage the household at all times, commanding what could be an army of servants; and when their husbands were away, they ran all the husbands' estates and acted as hostess for his guests.

   

Of Stations and Class

The manner in which this militia has been raised relies greatly on commoners native to the city.  Considering the area, all members except Officers shall follow the guidelines of dressing for Lower to Middle Class.  Officers may be allowed to dress respectively as higher-class or low-Nobility. 

Foreigners from England and the Low lands as well as Italy may be freely found in the city and such impressions are also welcome.

There is no set "uniform" for the unit, as that would be historically inaccurate.  All members shall wear civilian clothing of color and style appropriate of their station.  Uniform coherency and consistency on the battlefield will be marked by helmet decoration in the form of dyed ostrich plumes of gold and black, or painting of the helmet itself; as well as a small coat-of-arms symbol displaying a white trefoil on a blue circle or shield-shape.  

 

Note: Our city colors are exactly what the Burgundians wear and we wish not be mistaken for the enemy! Parti-colored jackets or doublets of blue and white are too close to the uniforms of the Burgundian army and should be avoided! Instead, the gold and black parti-colors of the Empire are much preferred. "Gold" is stated instead of "yellow" to denote a honey-color that is correct, rather than a canary color that is incorrect.

However, it is not required by any member to wear patron colors.  It should be noted and remembered that people held their allegiances very dear to them and would have been proud to display where they are from, but this thought is not enforced to allow freedom of personal choice.

Of Motto

The Land of Hessen, to which Kassel is its capitol, has the motto "Verbum domini manet in aeternum" In Deutsch: "Des Herrn Wort bleibt in Ewigkeit", In English "the Word of the Lord remains forever".  This motto may be repeated in battle song and hymn in homage to the Land we come from.  The motto may be freely used by any member of the Kompanie and displayed in an patriotic form.  Commonly, such mottos decorated the lower rim of helmets and were painted on decor, though some other creative devices might be considered.

 

 

CLIMATE

It is surmised that Europe experienced a slight "miniature Ice Age" in the generations following the Plague of the 1300's. Depopulation gave nature the opportunity to reclaim much more land and by the 1400s new trees had grown to adulthood. With so much foliage absorbing oxygen (a warm molecule) and exuding carbon dioxide (a cool molecule), the average temperature of the land dropped somewhat.

While you cannot expect to se wooly mammoths running about, nor great glaciers forming in the valleys, it did give mountain passes a more dangerous prospect in the colder months, which limited travel and avenues. It also tends to give explanation for so many layers of woolen garments being worn all at once, even in the summer.

This is not to say that it did not get "warm" in this era. Quite the contrary, there are many visual references to laborers stripped down to hosen, or even just their braise as they toil under the hot sun. All that it does mean is that shade was cooler, a swim in the creek more refreshing and the winter months much harsher.

 

 

CLOTHING

MEN WOMEN

 

 

Fashion was not a major part of a girl's life. It was important to the wealthy to keep up with current styles, but even a rich young lady could not afford more than a few gowns. Since ready-to-wear was not available, fashion could not change at the rate it does today.

   

Of Class guidelines

Unlike English units during the Wars of the Roses, the Kompanie is NOT paid per six-month contract in uniform clothing or textiles to make such.  Civic duty and the expense of training is a fair trade for service, as is the divvying of loot confiscated after offensive tactics.  All classes wear linen undergarments and wool outer-cloth, as well as some type of head-covering.

Colors available to Lower classes are natural/off white, brown, drabs/naturals, faded colors, gray and other earth-tones (very common).  The lowliest of the low may wear burlap, if so inclined.  Head-coverings lean toward straw hats, linen wraps, hoods and small/simple wool/felt hats.

Middle class are those mentioned, plus blue, rustic red, green, yellow, purple.  Head-covers lean to linen wraps, hoods and many different wool/felt hats.

 

Higher class are those previously mentioned plus black, furs, neutral red, darker/truer or more rich versions of the previous colors.  They avoid earth-tones, drab/natural colors associated with the lower classes. Head-covers lean to many different flamboyant hats made of wool, linen, fur and silk.

Nobility are afforded bleached white and metallic's as well as expensive materials such as velvets, fine furs, satins and lace as well as silk braids and brocades (not prints, but brocade). They avoid earth-tones, drab/natural colors associated with the lower classes. Head-covers lean to many different flamboyant hats made of wool, linen, fur, metallic's and silk.

Cotton is restricted to scarce use and only by those of Higher to Nobility in class and limited to small items such as purses.  Muslin can be substituted for linen underwear, and linen are available to all classes for both underwear and outerwear.  Wools of all textures are available to all classes, so long as they are not blended with synthetics.  Polyester or other simulated or synthetic fabrics and dyes (such as day-glows) are prohibited.  

All clothing shall be tailored to fit snuggly at the waist and along the torso.  Shoulders are to have natural contours for civilian clothing, except for higher classes and military application (for padding of arming doublets) which can have the puffed shoulders.  Shoes are to be leather with appropriate ties or buckles and leather soles.   Pointed-toed polyens are restricted to Higher to Nobility class only.  All classes take advantage of pattens, which are wooden soled sandals made to keep your shoes out of the mud.

Hosen for the legs shall be of lighter, stretch wool or wool cut on the bias.  Heavier wool may be appropriate for the weather, though we rarely participate in winter events at this time.  Hosen may be joined-hose made of two legs with cod-piece tied together or sewn, or split hose covering only the legs individually. 

The hosen shall either cover the foot like a sock, or have a strap beneath the heel or arch.  The cod piece of hosen should be of a  round shape, not triangular, as such in English tights.  The "points" that tie the hose to the doublet shall be laced on the inside, not the outside, like in English illustrations.

 

a half-doublet/Vest

Doublets are to be made of a sturdy wool.  The hosen are to be tied to the doublet with "points" tied under the garments.  Shoulders are to have natural contours, not English or Flemish "puffs".  Arming doublets may have puffed shoulders or entire puffed sleeves, or no puffing at all,  however the combatants feels more comfortable.  Civilian clothing however, shall forgo this "Burgundian" fashion.

a normal Doublet

Undershirts and sleeping garments and are to be of linen( or muslin substitute) and a natural/off-white or bleached white color.  Other undergarments for sake of comfort are permitted to be of cotton.  Socks did not exist and it is recommended your hosen encompass the entire foot for this sake.
Illustration pending
Illustration pending

It is encouraged that all men wear a jacke (jacket/coat) and not just a doublet in due time. But for military ventures, the Wachejacke, or watch coat is also encouraged.

 

The "uniform" jacke coat of gold and black parti-color wool with the white trefoil emblem emblazoned on the back is a highly-encouraged item.  Veterans who have served faithfully within the Kompanie for One year or appropriate services are rewarded with the jacke coat, owned by the Kompanie and must be returned to the Kompanie whence leaving service.  The city of Kassel could ill afford wide use of these expensive garments and ordered its soldier to wear their own clothes on the march (as in the march to Neuss).  Then only handed out the jacke coat just prior to parades or formation in front of other Imperial city forces.  These jacke coats were returned again to the Quartiermeister after the action.

Alternatively, a 15th century style "tabard", quartered or parti-colored, may also be worn by veterans of one year or equivalent into battle, made of wool or linen.  

Illustration pending

Of Decoration and Accessory

No patches or heraldic devices will be allowed on the clothing except for recognition of the city of Kassel.   Pilgrim badges are only allowed to be displayed by an individual who actually made the trek to these specific shrines.  Shrines were a commodity all over the Reich and any corresponding shrine found here in Americas may be a substitute (in fact there is a shrine located in Genoa, a town very near where I, the Hauptmann, live in Ohio).   ALL such devices are to be worn on civilian head wear ONLY and kept to a minimum.  

Illustration pending

Flemish-style hat. Most common men's headwear among middle and higher classes.

A wide variety of period hats are available to this period in history and must be worn.  Head coverings were a sanitary courtesy and worn nearly all the time to prevent the spread of parasites.  Hats should be of felt-wool blend, felt, linen, silk or wool.  Women's' head-wraps are to be of linen or appropriate replacements.  Bleached white is permitted here-in for all classes except the lowliest of the low wearing off-white.  

Germanic hood. Most common men and women's headwear of all classes.

Another common style of headwear among the lower and middle class.

Modern eye glasses should be avoided if at all possible, being replaced by contacts or 15th century "scissor spectacles".  If eye glasses are a necessity, please inquire about wooden or bone framed period spectacles.  During photographs, eye glasses should be removed.  Smoking shall be prohibited in public.  Smoking inside your personal tent, while closed off from the public is perfectly acceptable.   

Illustration pending

 

Of Consumption

Some sites explicitly prohibit any alcohol on the premises.  It is preferred that members of this Kompanie forgo the consumption of alcohol while at events.  Period drinks in period drinking containers will be allowed.  The simulation of alcoholic beverages in period drinking containers is allowed ON A VERY LIMITED BASIS after hours, so long as the individual does not become inebriated.  Feasting or meal-times, closed off from the public, shall allow for period alcoholic beverages as well.  All alcoholic beverages allowed will not exceed 2%.  Also, no combatant or anyone with a responsibility to another (as a mentor, parent, squire, guard, etc) shall consume alcohol.

From morning to evening from children to the elderly, beir was a part of everyday life. Sometimes it got regulated: Monks should only drink "6 Mass" per day. The "Mass" being from anywhere of 1 liter to 1.7 liter... You can imagine how much beer was drunk in an armed company. Of course, this wasn't even considered "intoxicant", and when you went "drinking" you really meant wine. However the case back then, intoxication is PROHIBITED in this Kompanie and severely dealt with.

Germans take their bier very seriously and cities were required to procure ordinances to be allowed to brew! Kassel received its official ordinance in 1395.

All illicit substances are prohibited in all forms.  Any violation of this order shall be met with immediate expulsion and possible intervention of the law.

 

Of Economy, Coinage, Jewelry and riches

The economy of Europe changed dramatically in the 1400's. Due to massive depopulation because of the Plague in the mid 1300's, which eliminated 1/3rd of Europe's population, the lower class citizens who survived were on the rise. With fewer skilled craftsmen and laborers to do work, higher wages were demanded and paid.

In Flanders and other low countries, prices fluctuated in the mid 1400s. Steadily raising until about 1436, where they peaked at 140.17, they began to fall, where it reached 96.02 in 1471. By 1476, they would rise to 117.21 again.

The reason for prices fluctuating are directly influanced by silver coins minted by the Empire and surrounding kingdoms. When sliver production is good, coins are more pure and worth more. Thus you may buy more with fewer coins. When silver production is low, coins are worth less and thus cannot buy as much.

This is a direct result of Southern German silver mines. The economy of central Europe was driven almost entirely by sliver production and mintage, until gold of the Americas drove the booming silver mines out of business in the 1490's and 16th century.

From 1471 through 1475, Saxony produced 4,360.94 kilograms of silver, while Bohemia (Kutna Hora and Kasperska Hora) produced 4,500 kg. Tyrol also produced 4, 112.50 kilograms, for a total of 12, 973.44 kg of silver being produced by the Empire. By 1476 and into 1480, Saxony boomed to 10,317.46 hg and Tyrol escalated also to produce 7,354 kg. Bohemia fell slightly to 4,250 kg, which means that the Empire produced a staggering 21. 921.46 kilograms of silver! these numbers were fairly consistent, even with the introduction of mines in Hungary in 1481, Slovakia in 1491, Thuringia in 1506, and another mine in Bohemia: Joachimsthal, in 1516.

Meanwhile, the Duchy of Burgundy had its own mints in Flanders and Brabant. Between 1471-75, Flanders produced 4,619.347 kilograms of silver, equaling 28,258 pounds sterling to the gram (English monetary term: the "pound"). Brabant produced only 2, 694.637 kg, making 16, 933 pounds sterling to the gram. However, Burgundy was also producing gold from its mines there as well. 140.215 kg of gold, worth 10,042 pounds sterling to the gram. Brabant making 120.987 kg at 8,884.98 pounds sterling to the gram. In all the percentages of Burgundy's output were 29.52% in gold and 70.48% in silver. England was producing great amounts of both silver and gold during this decade as well, their consistent contact with France bringing it into Europe. Their mints generated 14,034 pounds sterling worth of silver between 1471-75 and 34,818.55 pounds sterling worth in gold, obviously the greater majority.

Due to two improved methods involving the mining process, the silver mining in Germany especially boomed over the course of the 1460's. Saigerhüttenprozess, a chemical process that utilized lead in the smelting to separate silver from copper, and mechanical devices, some water powered, others horse-drawn, to allow for better drainage of deeper mine shafts, were both implemented around this time.

However, by the 1470s, many older mines were starting to become bare. Over the end of the century new mines were put into production, but all was for not as american gold made precious ore mining in central europe superfluous.

In the end, all this data points to the fact that prices did not entirely increase in the 1470's, despite an influx of silver. The reason is the fact that the population was on the rise again. this make commodities more scare, and worth more. However, an influx of coins would make commodities worth less. This counter balance ensured that the medieval population in Germany during the mid 1400s and into the last quarter of the century enjoyed relative prosperity.

However, by the 1490s and into the 1500s, several factors saw prices nearly double. A foot soldier in the 1470s was only paid 2 guilders a month, while a Landesknecht of the 1500s earned 4. Again we see the result of american gold deflating the worth of all European moneys, thus prices on commodities and services needed to be raised to balance this. In Brabant, belonging to the Duchy of Burgundy, prices steadily rose until they reached an amazing high in the mid 1600's at 1,015.14!

Every effort is being made to get resources on correct coins from the Empires' various nationalities so that reproductions can be made.  It is the goal of this Kompanie to hold a muster every six months where rolls and oaths will be made and wages received for service.  These coins might also be used as currency within the Kompanie and its craftsmen, as well as for use at Kompanie-held fairs and games. 

Jewelry of the era ranged from simple to ornate, but definitely has a unique style. Soldiers tended to carry their captured riches upon their persons. Gold was usually melted down and made into chains to be worn about the neck.

15th century guilders, gold coins.

 

Of Time, Days, Hours, Months and Years

Clepsydras, or water-clocks were common in Cathedrals by now and mechanical clocks are becoming into wide-spread use among the fashionable and the Churches.  The hours of the day were rang on the Church bells, at the interval nearest what we now know as every three hours.  Originally, daylight was the trigger for these tolls, meaning the summer hours would be much longer than the winter hours, but with the use of much more modern and accurate time-pieces, these hours are steady.

 

 

Mette:  Midnight Mittag:  Midday
Laudes:   Three in the Morning Vesper:  Three in the Afternoon
Prime:  Dawn Komplet:  Six in the Evening
Terz:  Nine in the Morning

The morning begins early for some as the first bell rings at Mette, called Matins in England and France, denoting a couple of hours before Dawn or Midnight.  

The next toll is Laudes, also called Latins, roughly three in the morning.  Shop owners head to work to get ready for the day and preparations for the day are made by everyone.

At dawn, the ringing of Prime sounds.  The night guards are off duty and often now have to aid in training all-day.  These are the harshest task-masters.  Shops open and the burgers assemble for the sermon beginning the day.  As the Cathedral also serves as the town hall, once the parish is finished, the appropriate assembly remains to begin their classes.

Roughly three hours of classes takes place, then the third hour tolls:  Terz or Tierce, roughly nine in the morning by our standards.  The Rottmeister preps the assembly for the din of battle by shouting "Raustreten!" and ushers everyone out of the Church at a scramble.

Sext was originally midday, but by now the noon hour is referred to as Mittag "Midday", or Nones in England and France.  The assembly breaks for a brief half-an-hour lunch and continues until Vesper, now at our three-o'clock.  

Komplet or Compline, was the final toll for the day, detailing bedtime.  During winter, this would be nightfall, however, in the summer light might last for a couple hours longer and the toll might be held back until the sun finally sets.  The night guards go back on duty.  A strict curfew is enforced in the city and anyone found on the streets without official-marked documents of their doings are subject to a fine or being detained.

 

 

Errata

A great deal of each nationality took to being isolationists.  Not hard to believe considering the many wars being fought.  While at military events and battle reenactments and scenarios, all combatant members shall assume an Imperial persona to portray; be it national or ally. Strong cohesion and unity of our unit is the utmost importance and no one should segregate themselves from our community.

I would like to acknowledge the sources of some of this reference if I could, but many links have been lost.  If you recognize a picture on this site as your own, or belonging to someone you know, please alert me to how I may contact them.  Being this is for the purpose of education, I doubt anyone will mind.  

This is the list of folks who I can acknowledge at this time:

Edward Jackson,  Individual members of the  Magnus Kompanie,  Christian Fletcher James Arlen, Robert Adunka, Holger Berwinkel, Brent Hanner, Tomasz Nowak, Tim Seegras, Wolf

On to Holy Roman Empire Armour
On to Imperial Impressions Weapons
On to Camp Equipment